The surfers are in ecstasy right now. A hugely anticipated south swell just hit the island, and the waves are going off. Bryan and I went to Black Rock beach this afternoon to check out the action. The water is usually pretty calm here, but on days where there are waves, the action is epic. Today was no exception, but the shore break today was especially massive.
Of course, every time I whipped out the camera was immediately after a huge set, so everything I captured seems puny in comparison. When Bryan and I were out there in the ocean, I got heaved up by a huge wave. I was at the peak of it looking down at the beach from about fifteen feet up. Yikes. Scaredy-cat that I am, I got out from the water shortly after the monster set was finished and sun bathed. Getting tossed around and bashed by little waves, let alone huge waves, are so not my thing.
In the video I took, you can see how long the shore break was. The wave crashed all along the beach all the way down to the lava wall at the Sheraton in one clean line, the wave toppling and slamming down into the sand in a thunderous roar.
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